B.

Organised by the Otago Embroiderers' Guild this touring exhibition of 20 contemporary works displays how embroidery arts in both the United States and New Zealand have developed over the past 30 years. Reflecting many of the styles and trends seen in contemporary painting, these recent works by internationally recognised embroiderers or textile artists illustrate how contemporary embroidery has developed a wit and a bite sometimes unexpected in such a medium.

Embroidery is a very ancient art form and one which, in many cultures, has played a significant role in the rituals of church, state and society. Once it was an essential skill for the 'marriageable ladies' of prosperous families. It has also borne the scorn of being dismissed as one of the frivolous, repetitive and less useful crafts.

Today however, as U.S. and Us demonstrates, embroidery is claiming a place among the significant textile arts. Barbara Lee Smith, a well-known American embroiderer who has taught and exhibited in the United States, Britain and New Zealand, is the curator of this touring exhibition. She was asked to select ten works from the States and ten from New Zealand. Lee Smith explains that for this selection she was looking for compatibility and for examples which reflected the range of current American approaches. As a result the works she chose were all conceived and executed with a vigour and expertise we may not normally associate with the art.

Of the New Zealand selection, which includes the work of the Christchurch embroiderer Marianne Hargreaves, the curator said she selected works which 'engaged my heart and mind, that seemed new and fresh and were lively expressions of the best of New Zealand embroidery.'

Engaging, witty and sharp, many of these works tell personal stories related to the lives of the women artists. They also display their wide range of styles, materials, stitches and techniques and the fascinating deployment of thread and needle in non-traditional ways. U.S. and Us also illustrates a freedom in the approach to materials with the artists refusing, like many contemporary painters, to be labelled or categorised. 'When you embroider,' a leading American textile artist Maria-Theresa Fernandes says, 'you have the contrasts of surface textures and you can take the work so much further.'

U.S. and Us is brought to the McDougall with the assistance of Air New Zealand, Creative New Zealand and Bernina New Zealand Ltd.

A special programme is running in conjunction with U.S. and Us . On Sunday 18 May at 11am Margery Blackman, the honorory Curator of Ethnographical Textiles from Otago Museum, will speak at the Gallery on 'Embellishments in Thread. Examples of fine embroidery through the ages and across several cultures.'

This exhibition was held at the Robert McDougall Art Gallery in the Botanic Gardens.